Andy Ng is a self taught guitar enthusiast. He have played guitar for the last 5 yrs and is always seeking ways to improve. This blog is started to share his passion and knowledge with you. Besides working, Andy also teaches people how to play guitar part-time. He lives in sunny Singapore. These are the 3 levels of lessons he teaches.

Beginners

  • Basic Strumming & Picking
  • Major, Minor, 7th Chords
  • Learn How To Play Any Song You Desire
  • Playing Your First Guitar Solo With Scales
  • Intermediate

    • Easy Song Writing
    • Advanced Strumming & Rhythm Playing
    • Chords Formation, Progression & Structure
    • Advanced Scales & Soloing
    • Advanced

      • Improvisation On The Fly
      • Writing Original Songs
      • Playing Cover Songs With Your Own Style
      • Altered Tunings & Composing Songs With Them
      • When & What To Play In Your Band
      • Contact Andy at:

        Email: 1andyngks@gmail.com

        Mobile:+65 8163 2483

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  • « Keeping Your Guitar In Tune…Always | Home | Learn Guitar Rake »

    How To Change Classical/Nylon Strings

    By andy | August 6, 2007

    We’ve covered changing steel/electric string in this category. I realized that there are many classical guitar players out there who felt left out and decided to write a post on how to change your classical guitar string. Here it goes…

    Attaching The String To The Bridge

    Once you have removed a string, attach the string to the bridge as illustrated in the diagram:

    Thread the string through the bridge hole and loop it around itself. Insert the string under itself at the rear of the bridge (where the back holes are) so that it locks on itself when you tighten the string. Once threaded and looped, hold the string in place with your finger and take up the slack by pulling smartly on the string (pull towards the head stock).

    Attaching The String To The Tuning Heads

    After the bridge tie is secure, attach the opposite end of the string to the tuning head roller as illustrated in the diagram:

    Turn the tuning key until the string hole is centered in the roller (see diagram above). Thread the string through the hole on the top of the roller. Pull the end out the bottom and twist it around the string: twist once for basses and two or three times for trebles. Pull the loose end of the string upwards as you tighten the string (turn the tuning key clockwise) so the string is caught between the string and the roller, i.e., runs over itself. This procedure insures the string won’t slip out when under tension. Finally, use the string winder to bring the string up to pitch by cranking clockwise. Keep a watchful eye on the bridge tie. If it begins to slip, slack the string and tie it again. Repeat the above procedure with the remaining five strings.


    Alternative Bridge Tie

    This image illustrates my preferred method of securing the string to the bridge:

    I tie a knot to secure the string to the bridge. The only requirement is that the knot is large enough not to pull through at pitch. You can be creative and tie little hearts and bows if you wish. The advantages of this method are fourfold:

    • The string is better secured than the traditional tie and, thus, is less likely to slip.
    • String tension is focused on the end of the bridge resulting in simpler string geometry.
    • There is less wear to the bridge top and holes.
    • Provided you tie a nice knot, it’s more attractive than the traditional tie.

    To secure the bottom four strings, I begin with a half hitch knot. Keeping the knot loose, I thread the end through again, leaving enough slack to form a loop. Finally, I pull the string towards the head stock to tighten the knot. For the first and second strings, I loop through twice to make the knot big enough not to pull through under tension.

    String Gaskets

    No matter how you attach strings to the bridge, the holes eventually enlarge due to string pressure and abrasion. To protect bridge holes, I use a small plastic gasket between the knot and bridge. First, I drill six holes in a thin piece of plastic, e.g., credit card: four holes with a 1/16" drill bit and two holes with a 1/32" bit. The larger holes are for the four lower strings and the smaller holes are for the first two strings. Next, I use wire cutters to clip out the six gaskets. Finally, I trim each gasket to fit. Caution: if the gaskets are too big or have sharp corner they may eat into the sound board. Make the gaskets small enough they don’t touch the sound board. The plastic gaskets should survive two or three string changes. I have found tiny nylon washers at Radio Shack that worked well for the basses.

    String Gasket Making Tools (left to right): Exacto hand drills with 1/16" and 1/32" bits, string caskets drilled and cut from a credit card and wire cutters.

    Beads as String Gaskets

    Some guitarists use glass beads as gaskets and claim they enhance treble response. In the image below I used jade beads purchased in Honolulu’s Chinatown. However, I’ve also had good results with plastic and glass beads. Try to buy beads with the smallest hole diameter the string will pass through. Of course, you must make sure the knot is large enough lest the string slip through.

    Making Your Strings Last

    Many students have commented that their instrument sounds great with new strings but quickly loses its sparkle. There are four main factors that influence string life: string quality, personal hygiene, technique and frequency of playing. String quality and personal hygiene are the easiest factors to control. D’Addario Pro Arté Composites, Extended Play Coated, last two or three times longer than standard strings. They’re worth paying twice as much to preserve tonal response and avoid frequent string changes. Washing your hands before playing also has a major impact on string life. Dirty and sweaty mitts can kill fresh strings in mere minutes! Also, it is helpful to wipe your strings down with a micro fiber cloth. Micro fiber picks up sweat and oil better than any other fabric.

    Poor technique, e.g., heavy finger pressure, causes rapid string and fret wear. I’ve seen the metal wrap tear off a D string after a couple hours of twanging by a heavy fingered student. A light touch–the least amount of pressure to hold the string down–is not only good for your strings and frets, but is better for your body and music.

    Finally, the more you play, the faster you wear out your strings. That’s a fact of life. Live with it. However, the enjoyment of beautiful tone and wide dynamic response is worth a string change every month or even every week.

     

    Article taken from http://emedia.leeward.hawaii.edu/frary/changing_strings.htm

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    Topics: Guitar Accesories |

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